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Wood preparation and gloss

Wood preparation and gloss - Botany Forum

Wood preparation and gloss - Botany Forum


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  #1  
Old 06-17-2005, 04:02 AM
Ivan Kobrinsky
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Default Wood preparation and gloss



Hi botany-fans,

Is it favourable for wood, if I (after the general heating process) rub
it in with prefarred vegetable fat?

The wood is meant for private subsequent treatment, therefore it is to
remain relatively well received with/despite procedure.

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  #2  
Old 06-17-2005, 06:40 PM
P van Rijckevorsel
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Default Wood preparation and gloss

"Ivan Kobrinsky" <[Only registered users see links. ]> schreef

***
If you heat wood enough (well over 200 centigrade) then the finish applied
won't matter much. Note that heating will affect the structural integrity
and strength.
PvR


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  #3  
Old 06-17-2005, 09:47 PM
Ivan Kobrinsky
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Default Wood preparation and gloss

P van Rijckevorsel:



I'll consider that, thank you very much.

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  #4  
Old 07-01-2005, 03:16 AM
Sean Houtman
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Default Wood preparation and gloss

"Ivan Kobrinsky" <[Only registered users see links. ]> wrote in
news:1119044837.447259.239120@g44g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:


He is joking, if you get your wood that hot, it burns.

For a serious answer to your question, there are several plant based
oils that are used on wood, such as Tung oil and Linseed oil. I
wouldn't use an edible oil such as soybean or Canola oil on wood, as
they may affect appearance, and ability to apply glues to it.

Sean

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  #5  
Old 07-01-2005, 11:48 AM
P van Rijckevorsel
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Default Wood preparation and gloss

> > P van Rijckevorsel:


***

Wood is routinely heated that much and more in industrial processes,
without any burning occurring. What will exactly happen at high
temperatures will depend on lots of circumstances.

As you know, all that is left unburned of a building after a big fire will
be the wood (big dimensions only).
PvR



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  #6  
Old 07-01-2005, 05:52 PM
bae@cs.toronto.no-uce.edu
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Default Wood preparation and gloss

In article <1120187814.48888802638365a4984bacac757195b9@teran ews>,
Sean Houtman <[Only registered users see links. ]> wrote:

The reason for using ("boiled" not raw) linseed oil, tung oil, and
some others in preference to some random vegetable oil is that these
oils gradually polymerize in the presence of air, forming a sort of
plastic that seals the wood. These are called "drying oils". Most
oils don't do this -- they stay sticky and greasy indefinitely, and
may even develop an unpleasant smell as they become rancid. Dust and
dirt will stick to such a surface, and is not as easily removed as
from one prepared with a "drying oil" or a modern synthetic like
polyurethane.

Paint used to be made by mixing inorganic pigments into boiled linseed
oil, so you can regard the oil as a sort of colorless paint. I've
finished fine wood with linseed oil -- the first coats are mixed with
decreasing amounts of turpentine to carry the oil deeper into the
fibers of the wood, and you're supposed to add another coat of oil
every six months to a year for several years. The results can be good,
but matt urethane is almost as attractive, a lot easier to use, and
protects the wood much better. Of course, I've just worked with
ordinary stuff, like indoor trim and old furniture stripped of paint.
If you're working with antiques or very valuable wood pieces, take
advice from somebody who actually knows about these things, not me!

Btw, don't try to make "boiled" linseed oil yourself -- it's just
called "boiled". It's a more complicated process that involves high
temperatures, and really isn't something you want to do at home, even
if your fire and medical insurance are paid up.
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